Batteries & Chargers

How to choose batteries and chargers

A dead battery on a paid shoot is the most preventable disaster in photography. Pick wisely, carry enough spares.

OEM vs third-party

Original-manufacturer (OEM) batteries — Sony, Canon LP-E6, Nikon EN-EL — cost more but are reliable, predictable in cold weather, and won't trigger camera warnings. Third-party options (Wasabi, RAVPower, Newell) are 40–70% cheaper and most are perfectly fine for casual use. Pros usually keep at least one OEM in rotation for critical shoots; cheap spares are fine for everyday work.

Capacity (mAh) and real-world runtime

Battery capacity is measured in milliamp-hours (mAh). Higher numbers mean more shots per charge — roughly. Real runtime depends on how you shoot: live view burns batteries fast, EVF use is less efficient than optical viewfinder, video drains batteries 3–4x faster than stills, and IBIS (in-body stabilization) is a significant power drain. Manufacturer claims of "800 shots per charge" are best-case; budget 50–60% of that for real shoots.

Cold weather impact

Lithium-ion batteries lose 30–50% capacity in freezing temperatures. For winter shoots: keep spares in an inside pocket close to body heat, swap them as they fade, and remember the dead one will partially recover when warmed back up. OEM batteries handle cold better than budget third-party options.

Charging options

Single charger: cheap, slow, takes one battery at a time. Dual charger: charges two simultaneously, a real time-saver. USB-C in-camera charging: convenient on the road but ties up your camera while charging. Modern mirrorless bodies usually support USB-C PD (Power Delivery) for fast charging from laptops and power banks.